review

Edendum

16826053_1300661426646254_1557689021847763399_o

Image: Edendum

Italian: the nation’s favourite cuisine, second only to the mighty curry. We’ve come to see it as safe, easy food; a collection of familiar, reliable dishes that can be knocked together in no time at all. It’s the “job done” meal that ticks everyone’s boxes, and it remains the average Brit’s dinner party go-to. But do we really know Italian cuisine? Are the dishes we order (often without so much as glancing at the menu, never mind the specials board) giving us the true flavour of Italy? The answer is, clearly, no.

I promise you, I cast no judgement over the types of Italian restaurants that the average town in England relies heavily on for its pasta and pizza needs (trust me, I’m as fond of a 2-4-1 steal as the next person). But if you’re someone who also seeks more than mass-produced lasagne and bland carbonara of a Friday night, then a dinner date within the welcoming walls of Edendum will be time (and money) well spent. Loosen your belts, dear reader, because it’s time to get under the skin of “the good old Italian”, one delightfully authentic course at a time.

IMG_1002

Image: Barefoot Rosie

I can’t help but love Edendum from the moment I step inside; it exudes a kind of shrug your-coat-off-and-relax warmth. Alluring deli produce lines the shelves, begging closer inspection, and the restaurant’s core beliefs and practices are stencilled across the walls. Any restaurateur who claims to transport a slice of real Italy straight to the mouths of Brighton gets my attention immediately, and upon talking to Diego (one half of the founding duo) it’s clear the word “authentic” isn’t bandied around without substantial backing. He and Lorenza are here to feed not only our hunger but our understanding of genuine Italian cuisine, and with a recently revamped menu this education may require a few visits.

IMG_1005

Image: Barefoot Rosie

IMG_1010

Image: Barefoot Rosie

Starter

There’s only one occasion when I can tolerate the texture of velvet, and that’s when it presents as the smoothest, creamiest goats’ cheese. This heavenly cheese is the first component to get my approval on the gnocco misto fritto sharing platter, melting and expanding on my tongue. The kitchen is kind enough to separate the meats from the cheeses, so my companion and I enjoy a split-down-the-middle version of this house speciality. Accompanying the goat are: a pungent gorgonzola, a subtle brie, a nutty fontina and a burrata so oozy I need a spoon. Crispy-yet-soft doughballs soak up this dairy-heavy dish, while cerignola olives, cherry tomatoes and spiced homemade chutneys provide an essential acidity which cuts through the richness of the cheese.  

img_1017.jpg

Image: Barefoot Rosie

meat-edited.jpg

Image: Barefoot Rosie

Over on the meat side of the table there are comments along the lines of “This is the best prosciutto I’ve ever eaten. In my life. Ever” which I interpret to mean that if I wasn’t a pescetarian I still wouldn’t get a look in. The generous meat board also offers servings of coppa, cooked ham, spicy smoked spianata salami and wafer-thin mortadella.

Almost too pretty to eat, the gamberoni and Roma broccoli heads dance on their slate backdrop amongst swirls of saffron mayonnaise and edible flowers. Since I relish any opportunity to get my hands messy when eating, I don’t mind the shell-on presentation of these marinated king prawns; the delicate flavours underneath are well-complemented by a glass of Soave Classico.   

prawns-edited.jpg

Image: Barefoot Rosie

Main

We continue at a slow pace, and my companion switches to a glass of the Sangiovese Bigi to accompany the filetto di maiale con fichi. His first bite confirms how perfectly tender the pork fillet is, and I leave him to explore the parsnip purée and fig reduction while I gush over fact that someone in Brighton has finally nailed polenta mash. 

IMG_1028

Image: Barefoot Rosie

The smooth and salty base of my polenta e branzino is so addictive that it’s a shamefully long time before I pay the crispy-skinned sea bass any real attention. The delicate morsels of fish are tender, flavoursome and surrounded by capers and anchovies. While the scattered sun-dried tomatoes provide a sweet balance, some might feel this dish dances on the wrong side of salty, but I maintain that it comes down to personal preference. Just ensure the friendly and efficient waiter keeps your glass topped up with a crisp, dry white.

IMG_1026

Image: Barefoot Rosie

Dessert

The dessert options are presented, and a certain crème brulée con sorbetto al frutto della passione winks at me, just as it did at 10.42am when I first drooled over the brief but comprehensive list of dolci. At this stage, I’m so full I’m beginning to resemble a ball of gnocchi, but I place my order regardless, because anything with a name so beautifully lyrical is worth a little discomfort.  

It transpires that the crème brulée has not yet properly set, and I’m told it would upset the chef if I tasted anything less than perfection. Inwardly I bow down in respect. Edendum’s founders believe that the success of a dish depends just as much on the person cooking it as the quality of ingredients, and with this one swift assertion from the kitchen it becomes clear just how much heart and soul they’ve invested into pulling together their wonderful Edendum family.

IMG_1041

Image: Barefoot Rosie

We share the cannolo sicialano instead, but in truth we’re too full to appreciate it. Limoncello shots follow, and we roll out of the restaurant with a jar of the crema di carciofi e aglio from the deli as a souvenir of a delicious evening. That’s artichoke and garlic spread to the rest of us, and it’s bloody exquisite.   

17434700_1335774236468306_3045161866471300043_o

Image: Edendum

Verdict

Edendum is the place to take your in-laws, because the menu will impress them so much that you won’t need to. It’s the place to treat your new beau, because the cosy ambience will show that you know how to make a person feel special. It’s the place to host a business associate, because the waiting staff will meet your every need without bothering you unnecessarily. It’s the place to be when what you really want is a holiday in Tuscany but you’re a little bit skint. It’s the place to drop in when you need authentic Italian ingredients for your supper club and don’t want to support a chain deli. It’s even the place to dine alone; somewhere you can sit solo, and enjoy a sharing platter for two without anyone casting a judgemental glance your way.  

It’s also a place to return to, for the burrata with green pea purée, for the good value Pre-Theatre menu and, of course, for that crème brulée. See you again Edendum. Grazie di tutto.

 

 

Habitat Restaurant & Bar

Food review of Habitat Restaurant & Bar, Brisbane, Australia (first published on brisbane.concreteplayground.com.au)

If the definition of its name is anything to go by, you would expect Habitat to present itself as an environment in which you can feel naturally at home; a welcoming locale, day or night. Happily, this West End restaurant and bar successfully lives up to that expectation, providing a trendy yet unpretentious setting for post-work drinks, as well as a life-saving breakfast menu full of inventive hangover cures, should they be required the morning after. With a lunch and dinner menu equally as strong – featuring locally sourced, organic produce and ample portion sizes – Habitat proves itself to be as versatile as it is conveniently placed.

IMG_7260

Ask the staff for the best brunch recommendation and you’re sure to be advised that nothing beats the Vegemite and cheddar loaf, served with smoked bacon, free range poached eggs, rocket and macerated tomatoes ($13.50).  Sadly for pescetarians, it’s not possible to substitute the smoked leg ham for smoked salmon on an order of eggs benedict, but you can get a vitamin-rich alternative to meat by requesting a serving of beautifully ripe avocado instead.  Not a lover of the mighty poached egg?  Fear not: the menu creatively deviates away from the more predictable breakfast offerings with flavoursome dishes such as twice baked pumpkin and honey soufflé garnished with rocket, parmesan and feta ($14.00), or the aromatic white bean cassoulet served with ciabatta and lemon caper crème fraîche ($14.50).

IMG_7256

There’s an air of rugged masculinity to the spacious interior; throughout its visually balanced design it combines sleek, industrial-chic with rustic textures and moody grey tones.  A long, narrow mezzanine level separates diners from the main bar area, and gets you a little closer to the street espresso bar (which, incidentally, serves a thoroughly decent latté, complete with the customary froth-art).  It’s this confident design amalgamation, teamed with laid-back beats and a solid selection of craft beers and signature cocktails, which creates the buzz and draws the evening crowds. It’s worth noting, however, that whilst this laid-back local continues to gain popularity with Westies and visitors alike, aim to arrive by 10pm to avoid the disappointment of missing last orders from the bar.

Rating: 7/10

Style: Modern Australian

Ideal dish: Twice baked pumpkin and honey soufflé

Price Range: 3/5

Outdoor Seating: Yes

Good For Groups: Yes

Delivery: No

Wheelchair Access: Yes

Takes Reservations: Yes

 

New Burger on the Block

Food review of Coggings & Co, Brighton (first published in the Fiveways Directory)

It’s an exciting prospect for any foodie when a new independent restaurant opens; so how about one that uses locally-sourced ingredients, boasts eco-friendly furnishings, displays the work of local artists and just happens to serve up astonishingly mouthwatering burgers? Introducing Coggings & Co – Seven Dials’ new burger restaurant and gastronomic talk of the town.

IMG_8664

It seems Brighton is experiencing a burger revolution; soggy buns and meat of dubious origin are no longer deemed acceptable.  Today, the hungry customer seeks high quality and creativity; an expectation Coggings & Co more than satisfies.

It’s with keen anticipation that I enter the new premises of Andrew Coggings, former Fiveways business owner and 2013 Sustainable Restaurant Awards winner.  Andrew’s ethical approach has lost none of the key attributes that previously made him successful; sustainability and service remain high priorities, and he demands nothing short of perfection where quality is concerned.

IMG_8661

 

IMG_8649

The inventive menu is built around the very best Sussex produce; beef from Redlands Farm, brioche buns from the Real Patisserie.  Whilst this menu is compact, it takes us some time to digest the options; local photographer (and my gastro partner-in-crime) Pam Dolton tackles the meat while I peruse the specials board.  We’re so excited we can barely control ourselves.  The mention of chilli jam wins me over and I opt for the spiced cauliflower and sweetcorn fritter, whilst my beef-loving colleague chooses the brisket with a chipotle chilli kick.

IMG_8655 IMG_8656

There isn’t much conversation once the food arrives; stacked high, and presented simply but attractively on wooden boards, these are the Mount Everest of burgers.  It’s fair to say we’re both equally overcome by the aromas, textures and flavours of our respective dishes.  This is undeniably good food.  Garnished with fresh leaves, extraordinarily good chips and homemade aioli it’s also incredibly filling food, but it’s inconceivable not to at least attempt a dessert.  Opposite me, Pam looks as though she might burst with delight when a plate of mini doughnuts arrives, filled with black cherry coulis and accompanied by a pot of Cocoa Loco Fairtrade organic chocolate dipping sauce.  Heaven on a plate, basically.

IMG_8659

Uncomfortably full but ridiculously happy, we’re unable to move for some time; Andrew’s experienced and loyal staff don’t rush us.  We spend some time admiring the quirky artwork and relaxed aesthetics of the space, before eventually waddling home.  Our verdict: Coggings & Co is a triumph and a must-try.

Words: Rosie Greenaway barefootblissblog.wordpress.com

Photos: Pamela Dolton www.pdphotography.uk.com