Food review of Coggings & Co, Brighton (first published in the Fiveways Directory)
It’s an exciting prospect for any foodie when a new independent restaurant opens; so how about one that uses locally-sourced ingredients, boasts eco-friendly furnishings, displays the work of local artists and just happens to serve up astonishingly mouthwatering burgers? Introducing Coggings & Co – Seven Dials’ new burger restaurant and gastronomic talk of the town.
It seems Brighton is experiencing a burger revolution; soggy buns and meat of dubious origin are no longer deemed acceptable. Today, the hungry customer seeks high quality and creativity; an expectation Coggings & Co more than satisfies.
It’s with keen anticipation that I enter the new premises of Andrew Coggings, former Fiveways business owner and 2013 Sustainable Restaurant Awards winner. Andrew’s ethical approach has lost none of the key attributes that previously made him successful; sustainability and service remain high priorities, and he demands nothing short of perfection where quality is concerned.
The inventive menu is built around the very best Sussex produce; beef from Redlands Farm, brioche buns from the Real Patisserie. Whilst this menu is compact, it takes us some time to digest the options; local photographer (and my gastro partner-in-crime) Pam Dolton tackles the meat while I peruse the specials board. We’re so excited we can barely control ourselves. The mention of chilli jam wins me over and I opt for the spiced cauliflower and sweetcorn fritter, whilst my beef-loving colleague chooses the brisket with a chipotle chilli kick.
There isn’t much conversation once the food arrives; stacked high, and presented simply but attractively on wooden boards, these are the Mount Everest of burgers. It’s fair to say we’re both equally overcome by the aromas, textures and flavours of our respective dishes. This is undeniably good food. Garnished with fresh leaves, extraordinarily good chips and homemade aioli it’s also incredibly filling food, but it’s inconceivable not to at least attempt a dessert. Opposite me, Pam looks as though she might burst with delight when a plate of mini doughnuts arrives, filled with black cherry coulis and accompanied by a pot of Cocoa Loco Fairtrade organic chocolate dipping sauce. Heaven on a plate, basically.
Uncomfortably full but ridiculously happy, we’re unable to move for some time; Andrew’s experienced and loyal staff don’t rush us. We spend some time admiring the quirky artwork and relaxed aesthetics of the space, before eventually waddling home. Our verdict: Coggings & Co is a triumph and a must-try.
Words: Rosie Greenaway barefootblissblog.wordpress.com
Photos: Pamela Dolton www.pdphotography.uk.com